THE BEST OF MULL

Mull is a tranquil, peaceful and very beautiful island,one of the Inner Hebrides,  far removed from the bustle and busyness which afflicts the honey spots on Skye during peak season.It oozes calm and space.It may not match the sheer spectacle of Skye but in many ways, to me, it is lovelier overall.Less built upon.Further from the madding crowd.It’s north west corner around Loch na Keal and up through Calgary Bay are officially ranked as one of Scotland’s ‘Most Outstanding Landscapes.’ Wildlife on Mull is second to none, easier to find than on Skye and the sheer variety of walks – from the islands ‘cool high Bens’ to gentle beach strolls –  is enough to last a lifetime.Combined with a visit to Iona and Staffa, Mull offers a world class experience of some of the best of Scotland’s famed west coast.

Which ferry to take? (3 options)

The most scenic ferry crossing is Oban to Craignure. It’s a glorious 50 minute sail.Oban is less than  2.5hours drive from Glasgow, a fine drive in itself, taking you past Loch Lomond, through lovely Glen Croe, Inveraray  (and its fairytale castle, a nice little town), then over the hill road to Loch Awe. Unless it’s winter, book the ferry as soon as you can.The earlier and later sailings get booked up quickly.Mid day ferries tend to have available spaces.As with all ferry sailings,  always check the weather forecast re wind strength and check Calmac’s website on the day of sailing.If the Oban sailing is off, the other two ferry options may still be operating as they cross the more sheltered Sound of Mull.

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Lismore lighthouse on the Oban – Craignure route
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Duart Castle from Oban – Craignure ferry

Corran Ferry – Ardgour – Lochaline to Fishnish. Corran ferry is beyond Glencoe and around a 2.5 hour drive from Glasgow.However, once the 5 minute , very pretty ferry journey is over, you then have a 45 minute, mostly single track drive to Lochaline to pick up the ferry to Fishnish on Mull.I don’t enjoy this extra driving part of the journey.It’s scenic enough and Lochaline is a very lovely , tiny place but as you can’t book the Corran or Lochaline ferry, I don’t like the  ‘will we get on/or not’ uncertainty as I’m an impatient sort and don’t like waiting around. In contrast,  my husband loves this route and it does give you a taste of beautiful and wild Ardnamurchan, though not the loveliest part.But that 45 minute race from Ardgour to Lochaline, usually in the company of other  cars racing to the ferry – and all the stop – starting on the single track road as you meet cars doing the trip in the opposite direction – can be a pain.But needs must sometimes.It’s certainly then only a short 15 minute ferry crossing from Lochaline to Fishnish on Mull. And Lochaline is very quiet, very peaceful.A far cry from Oban.

Kilchoan to Tobermory ferry (30 mins)  – beautiful.But it’s 40 miles plus of the most winding, twisting single track you can imagine  from Ardgour (via the Corran Ferry)  to Kilchoan , so unless you have the time and want to explore superb, off the beaten track Ardnamurchan,( as wild and beautiful a corner of Scotland as you will get),  or you are travelling from Mallaig, it’s around a 90min to two hour drive and a very tiring , if very beautiful one.

 

What to do and see on Mull?

IONA AND STAFFA

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Mull from Iona’s North End

I find it difficult NOT to factor in Iona when on Mull for a few days. It’s just so beautiful.With only one day, I’d prioritise Iona and Staffa also.The drive to Ioan from Craignure is beautiful too.

I always give myself two hours to drive to Fionnphort from Craignure. You can do it quicker but it’s mostly single track and you will want to stop and breathe in the beauty all around you.Golden eagles are often seen on the ridge line of the hills around Glen More.The drive along Loch Scridain (pron Scree-jin) is glorious, once you are through the high green hills of the glen.

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You are now whirling through the Ross of Mull,  a wonderful part of this big, peaceful and unspoilt island and well worth exploring in itself. Give yourself time to fouter about getting yourself parked at Fionnphort and geared up for Iona and if the weather is kind, the ferry trip out to Staffa. Use the free car park signposted behind the village;otherwise, nearer the jetty, you pay and are tied in to getting back at a specific time.The ferry is five minutes walk away from the free car park though you also need time to queue up and buy your ticket.You can’t get it on board.

After all that, you will no doubt see a ferry just departing, unless you’ve been organised and planned for a particular sailing.In summer at least, they are frequent.In winter, there is an annoying lunch break, so check the timetable.We drove a long way one winter’s day,  only to realise we had two hour wait for the next one.Hell mend us for not casting a glance at the timetable in advance!

It’s a five minute sailing across the pale emerald, crystal clear waters of the Sound of Iona.A truly gorgeous area, with the tiny sand beach of Fionnphort backed by stunning pink rocks.

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Fionnphort

Then the pretty string of village houses on Iona grow nearer and the pinkish grey stone of the Abbey is made out and then you are up the slipway past a white sand beach.You have arrived into an even more peaceful, delightful world – despite the hordes of day trippers. Somehow, the island never loses that special atmosphere of calm and serenity.A holy isle indeed. There are almost no cars,  just birdsong,  as you wander up the quiet road past the lovely pink stone ruins of the Nunnery, with wildflowers growing out of the masonry; a building perhaps even lovelier than the Abbey itself.

North End, Iona

Isle of Iona

Much lovelier than the more often mentioned Bay at the Back of the Ocean, the North End is a beautiful area of white shell sand beaches, black and pink rocks and emerald seas. It’s a 25 min flattish walk approx from the jetty, past the Abbey.The views to Mull’s Wilderness headland and the ethereal Treshnish Isles are a delight from North End.This was the favoured spot of the Scottish Colourists, renowned painters of the early 20th Century – Cadell, Peploe and Fergusson – who were inspired by the islands light and colour.The only sound will be sheep and even in peak season you may have it all to yourself.Listen too for the ‘ krek krek’ of one of our rarest birds, the Corncrake.Almost impossible to see but impossible to ignore when it gets started!

The Abbey buildings

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One of the most important Christian sites in Europe, founded by St Columba and where the Book of Kells was most probably written.Burial place of over 40 Scottish Kings and several Norwegian kings.St Oran’s Chapel is even older than the Abbey itself.

The Abbey is a little disappointing inside , rather untidy somehow, but the adjacent Museum is a gem with the original,  towering stone Celtic crosses on display as well as wonderful warrior graveslabs.

There are some 150 ancient graveslabs here, some of which are displayed in the serene cloisters.Each is decorated with carved galleys, swords, hunting scenes and other intricate designs.Just wonderful.

The burial ground of the chapel has been in use since around the 8th century. King of the  Picts and first King of Scots, Kenneth MacAlpin, is buried here, as is Macbeth.The Chapel and burial ground are free entry but you must pay to see the Abbey/Museum, unless you have a Historic Scotland pass.

https://www.historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/iona-abbey-and-nunnery

Dun I(pron.doon ee)

Cairn View

The island’s highest point at a mere 333 feet(101m) but what a viewpoint! There’s a signposted track to the top, of no difficulty, though rough underfoot and sometimes muddy. 25mins up approx.The ocean and a sea of islands all around.

STAFFA

Turus Mara (from Ulva Ferry on Mull) or Staffa Tours from Fionnphort or Iona, go out to Staffa, a wonderous site which knocks the Giant’s Causeway for six. May to early August also sees hundreds of puffins nesting on top of the island and they are fairly tame.Turus Mara also offer a longer trip to include Lunga, with even MORE puffins and huge guillemot colonies nesting on spectacular cliff ledges.Fabulous trip, whichever you have time for.But even in summer it can be very cold, so hats and warm gear are required against significant windchill.This is the North Atlantic after all!

ROSS OF MULL BEACH WALKS

There are several beaches worth a stroll at low tide.Ardalanish is a beach of hard packed white sand , offering fine views of the Paps of Jura on a clear day.Not quite in Iona’s class but a pleasant spot nonetheless.That view is the thing, if the light is right. Only a 15  -20 minute drive from Fionnphort with parking.

Ardalanish Beach and Jura

Knockvologan has an unattractive approach beside scruffy farmland but at low tide, what a beautiful series of sandy coves, backed by lovely rocky knolls, await.10 min drive from Fionnphort.

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LOCH NA KEAL (translation –  loch of the church)

Wildlife central.Otters galore, along each side of the rocky shore.Golden eagles nesting on the hillside beyond Gruline as the loch comes into view.Sea eagles nest on the other side of the loch almost opposite.Both are ‘served’ by small parking areas of rough ground.You’ll see the wildife watchers with binocluars and scopes! We had the excitement of watching a male sea eagle awaiting the sea eagle boat, which throws a fish into the water for it to pick up.Sure enough, the boat arrived and he took off then swooped across the water to get the fish.What a sight. Just behind us, an otter was grooming itself on rocks!

There are various wildlife watching tours which will do their best to let you see some of these sights.No guarantees however.A rising tide is generally best for spotting otters though we’ve seen them at all tides states in winter.

Mull also has the highest density of breeding golden eagles in Europe and we have seen them all over the island but most frequently here.Sometimes, 3 at once!

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Sea eagle near Fishnish
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Otter , Loch na Keal

The drive from Loch Scridain over the hill pass to the loch, is a spectacular one. Stop at the top for superb views over the ocean and the ethereal Treshnish Isles and admire the brooding cliffs and emerald fields of this superb part of Mull.Sunsets here are wonderful.Then head carefully down, down the winding road and along by Gribun, hugging the sea and with the broken rocky hillsides towering above you.Always good to get past this section as there can be rock fall! Then suddenly you are beside Loch na Keal’s gentle shores.Ben More rears 3,000 feet up from the sea, a fine hillwalk on a good day with no difficulty.

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Otter central, Loch na Keal
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Sunset from Gribun

ULVA FERRY

There is a lovely little cafe/restaursnt Ulva island. A boatman will take you across for £6 return, on demand.Good seafood and other choices – and one of the loveliest views of any restaurant from it’s outdoor tables.Pleasant walks to be had on the island,all signposted.

From Ulva Ferry, this north shore of Loch na Keal towards Calagry is an area officially designated one of Scotland’s Most Outstanding Landscapes.

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North shore, Loch na Keal looking towards Ben More

CALGARY BEACH

It’s a cracker of a drive up and over the north end of Loch na Keal and then above Loch Tuath. It all feels very remote and wild and then across empty moorland and down to  Calgary beach.Well worth a stroll , though unless it’s off season you won’t be alone.A walk out along the rough track to Calgary Point is also well worth it.We surprised a sea eagle sitting on a rock, surveying its hunting grounds and watched an otter negotiate the deep kelp and rocky shore below the path.Have also seen golden eagles flying above the headlands around the beach too.

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LANGAMULL

A forty minute walk from the Forestry car park , only 10 minutes drive beyond Calgary, will bring you to this series of delightful shell sand coves, very quiet and peaceful.We camped here one night and watched four Orcas cruising offshore one early summer, the sea flat calm.Beautiful area all round.

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It’s a nice walk round the grass and rocks to Port na Geal, with more deserted little beaches and fine views to Rum.

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CROIG HARBOUR

A lovely spot to contemplate the peace and beauty of this quiet, off the beaten track part of Mull.Only visited it once but it made an impression.

TOBERMORY

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A very pleasant little harbour village with some nice shops, a good butcher’s (Glengorm Castle estate venison and beef ), good chocolate shop and a well known pub, The Mishnish.Good restaurant @ Cafe Fish though I haven’t tried it yet.

GLENGORM CASTLE

A winding single track 4 mile drive north of Tobermory.I stayed here once and it is well worth it though not cheap any more. Beautiful spot and quite a sight.There are walks for anyone to access through the estate, with superb views to Rum and the Outer Hebrides. Nice tearoom in the converted Stables block with very good home-baking.

Accommodation:plenty websites showing a very wide range of usually excellent accommodation.Some I’ve tried, all self catering:

Ach na Brae – excellent large house in Ross of Mull, five mins drive from the Iona ferry.

Tostary cottage – North Mull, above Loch Tuath.Feels remote, great views, high above the shore.

Glengorm Castle – north of Tobermory.Stunning site.

Shore Cottage , Torosay Castle near Craignure.Secluded and with nice shore walking.

Wild camping…Loch Ba, Loch na Keal, Carsaig, Kinloch, Langamull, Kinloch.

2 thoughts on “THE BEST OF MULL

    1. Thank you Sandy, that’s great to hear! You will love Mull I’m sure (we’re headed there tomorrow for the weekend and the Staffa /puffins trip.) We’ve visited so often but I still can’t wait either!

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